Killers of the Deep!

Greetings Everyone,

We’re in Western Australia exploring diverse habitats and looking for rare and endangered animals. Our explorations have led to Bremer Bay, the farthest east we’d travel on this trip. We were drawn to this sleepy coastal town to see Orcas. We arrived around noon on February 11 and after lunch set off to explore nearby Fitzgerald River National Park. We decided to visit Point Ann. It was a long drive on a mix of paved and dirt roads. Along the way, we encountered a flock of ~20 Baudin’s Black-Cockatoos. This was the third species of black-cockatoos seen on this trip with the other two being Red-Tailed and Carnaby’s Black-Cockatoo. They were feeding on nuts that they were extracting from pine cones with their long bills. Like Carnaby’s Black-Cockatoo, Baudin’s Black-Cockatoo is endangered primarily due to loss of nesting and feeding habitat.

Baudin's Black-Cockatoo

We continued on our way entering the park and rattling down a dirt road with a deep washboard. We saw some interesting vegetation like Royal Hakea and Bird's Nest Banksia (Banksia baxteri) some of which was still in bloom.

Bird's Nest Banksia

Royal Hakea

We arrived at Point Ann and the place was pretty much empty. We walked the Point Ann Heritage Trail, a 1-km loop. Along the way were remnants of the No. 2 rabbit-proof fence built in 1905 to keep introduced rabbits from entering West Australia. The fence ran north from Point Ann, 1164 km to join the No. 3 fence northeast of Geraldton! At the time, it was the longest unbroken fence in the world. The fence was maintained until 1960 by boundary riders who used horses, camels or bicycles to monitor the fence. Following the introduction in the 1950s of myxomatosis, a virus used to control rabbits, the fence was no longer needed.

Remnants of No. 2 Rabbit Fence

We enjoyed sweeping views over Point Charles Bay. In the winter Humpback and Southern Wright Whales congregate here to give birth to their calves. Today the bay was empty.

Point Charles Bay

We were up early to have breakfast and to pack up for a day on the Southern Ocean. To see Orcas, you have to venture 24 nautical miles offshore to Bremer Canyon where Orcas and other marine mammals congregate this time of year. When we arrived at the dock, there was already a line waiting to board our boat.

Marc at the Whale Boat

We boarded around 8:00 and sat in comfortable seats in the front of the inside cabin where we were given a safety drill and information about the Orcas and canyon. Once underway we went upstairs and were standing on a deck outside the bridge. It was quite breezy and rough with 4-meter swells so we went inside and chatted with Jamie, the captain. After about an hour and a half, we reached the shelf and plunged over the edge into very deep waters of Bremer Canyon. Now we were in the “hot zone” for the Orcas. It wasn’t long before we encountered our first pod of Killer Whales! At first, it was just dorsal fins but then the Orcas began to reveal themselves. It was a thrill to see these majestic creatures for the first time. The pod had just made a kill, most likely a Beaked Whale and were feeding on the carcass below the surface. One Orca came alongside us with a big chunk of meat in his mouth. Brodee, the marine biologist on board identified him as the sub-adult male named Slater. It was the first time they had seen him this season.

Slater with Breakfast

Throughout the day we encountered at least three pods. The marine biologists on board are able to identify individuals by the shape of their dorsal fins, eye patch or saddle patch. The parts of an Orca are depicted in the following diagram from Punta Norte Orca Research.

Parts of a Whale @ Punta Norte Orca Research

One pod displayed extremely yellow pigmentation on their eye patches. It is believed that this coloration is caused by a diatom (single-celled algae ) infestation on their skin. Over the last few decades, researchers have described different forms of Orcas known as ecotypes. These ecotypes of Orca differ by size, prey preferences, foraging techniques, behaviors and they are genetically distinct and don’t appear to interbreed.  Brodee speculated that the pod with the yellow cast were Type B Orcas. When not in Bremer Bay, these Orcas forage for seals in the loose pack ice around the Antarctic continent where they pick up the diatoms. 

Orca Pair

Baby Orca

After a long 8 hours out at sea, it was time to return to Bremer Bay. We had such an exhilarating experience that we booked a second excursion for another fascinating day on the Southern Ocean. On our way to Bremer Canyon, we were fortunate to meet and talk to filmmaker Dave Riggs, the man responsible for discovering that Orcas visit Bremer Canyon and for getting the canyon protected as a marine park. The story began in 2005 when Dave was contracted by a Japanese tuna research vessel to observe marine wildlife. Dave noticed an unusual amount of activity in the vicinity of Bremer Canyon. The area attracted all sorts of marine life; Orcas, sharks, dolphins, Sperm Whales and giant squid, a real biological hotspot! Dave contacted the oil and gas company, Arcadia Petroleum, that was conducting seismic surveys in the area and they provided him with all the data they had collected. Ironically it was this data that confirmed Dave’s findings and helped to create the marine park thus preventing the company from drilling for oil. What an incredible turn of events! The story was so captivating that before we knew it, we had arrived at Bremer Canyon. To learn more about Dave go to his website at:

Riggs Australia

The Orcas were there to greet us. They were particularly friendly today cavorting around the boat and even swimming underneath us, belly up! The ship’s photographer, Machi Yoshida caught some great photos of us enjoying these close encounters.

Marc Lining Up an Orca Photo

Peggy Enjoying a Close Encounter

So why do Orcas and other marine animals come here this time of year? The answer is that leaking hydrocarbons provide a boost to the food chain. Bacteria convert these compounds to nitrates, the favorite food of phytoplankton which in turn feeds crabs, shrimp, and other shellfish. The eggs produced by these animals reach the surface this time of year when ocean currents weaken and schools of fish arrive to partake in the bonanza. They attract predators like tuna, sharks, squid, dolphins and at the top of the food chain, the Orcas! 

An Orca Blow

Orca Close Encounter

More Orcas

After watching the Orcas for a couple of hours, we went off in search of Pilot Whales. We didn’t find them but the ship's hydrophone picked up the clicking of a Sperm Whale far below the surface. On the way back to Bremer Bay, we stopped at Glasse Island to view the Australian Sea Lions, another new marine mammal species for us. These endangered pinnipeds have not recovered from the days they were hunted for their pelts, meat and for their blubber used to make oil.

Australian Sea Lions

What an incredible visit to Bremer Canyon. Not only were we able to see Orca on two excursions but we were privileged to meet Dave Riggs, the man who is responsible for making all this happen. A big thank you to Dave for all his hard work in protecting this magical place for the Orcas and for us lucky humans who venture here to see them!

We hope all is well with everyone.

Peggy and Marc

Our route map: