Return to Machu Picchu

Greetings Everyone,

We are in the South American country of Peru on a 9-day trek from the Incan ruins of Choquequirao to Machu Picchu. We’re more than halfway through our trek and about ready to climb to the high mountain passes separating us from our destination. Our first objective was San Juan Pass, a 4100-foot ascent from Maizal through bamboo and lupine forest. The trail was mucky and the views obscured by lingering clouds but we made good progress up to Victoria Mine and stopped to wait for the rest of our group. An open shaft led to an abandoned silver mine that had been worked for over 1000 years! Marc and I donned our headlamps and crouched to avoid hitting our heads on the low ceiling. We didn’t venture too far inside, stopping at a junction where the roof was held up by an old wooden beam.

Inside Victoria Mine

We returned to the outside just as the others were arriving.  Nearing the pass, two Andean Condors soared overhead. From a rocky outcrop at around 13,500-feet we were hoping to see spectacular views of the Cordillera Vilcabamba but only got glimpses of the peaks between the clouds.

Views of the Cordillera Vilcabamba

Descending into the Rio Yanama Valley, the trail was lined by lupines that grew to the size of small trees!

Lupine Bushes

Our camp had been set up in the yard of a local family in the village of Yanama. Big changes are coming to this valley. A gravel road has now been constructed to the town and will be built further all the way to Maizal. It will certainly make life easier for the locals but will change the peaceful way of life that now exists here.

Camp at Yanama

Our trek group left Yanama early the next morning and followed the road before veering off on a trail. The climbing became steeper as it approached Totoro Pass. We reached a viewpoint of the Cordillera Vilcabamba and could see the peaks of Sacsarayoc, Pumasillo, and Choquetecarpo. 

Peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba

Our group paused for a photo including Froilan and his horse Raul who was accompanying us. Raul was carrying extra water and we referred to him as “the water horse”. 

Robin, Mark, Chris, Peggy, Marc, Froilan and Raul (L-R)

Victor scrambled straight up but we stuck to the trail with switchbacks. He stopped at the high point around 15,300 feet but Marc and I went ahead to get a view of Salkantay before it disappeared into the clouds. At 20,574 feet, Salkantay is the highest peak in Vilcabamba Mountain Range.

Salkantay Looming Above Tortora Pass

Now for the 4600-foot descent on alternating sections of trail and dirt road until our arrival at Hornopampa where a bridge crossed the river.

Descending from Tortora Pass

Beyond Hornopampa lay the village of Totoro, our camp for the night. The woman who owned the campsite was busy weaving scarves from Alpaca wool. I purchased one and Chris bought two making her very happy.

Alpaca Scarf Weaver in Tortora

The next morning our trek 'family' said goodbye to the horsemen: Froilan, Robert, and Flavio as they were returning to Yanama and a bus would deliver our duffel bags to the next campsite.  We followed the road taking a few short trails to cut a switchback or two and had our final views of Salkantay before it disappeared near the junction with the more popular Salkantay Trek. 

Last Views of Salkantay

Our group left the road for good, following a path down to the Santa Teresa River and crossing a bridge near some hot springs. Victor spotted some birds in the trees along the undulating trail through the cloud forest. It was a pair of Masked Trogons and Marc was able to get some photos. 

Masked Trogon

Around 1:30 we reached a second bridge, recrossed the river and climbed back up to the road where 3 minivans were waiting. We found ours, climbed in, and rode for about 35 minutes to Lucmabamba where a private camping site awaited us. It was very nice with a dining room, clean bathrooms, and a camping area.

Lucmabamba

Victor had scheduled a coffee tour for later that evening but the guys were distracted with soccer. There was a TV in the dining area and Brazil was playing Argentina. The winner would play either Peru or Chile in the semifinals of the Copa América soccer tournament. We had popcorn and our first beer of the trek. It was getting dark so I set off on the coffee tour forcing the guys to follow. The tour was given by a local man named Wilfredo who led us up some stone steps along which coffee plants were growing, reaching a building where the picked coffee beans were washed, the husks removed and then dried for 15 days.

Wilfredo Showing Coffee Trees

Our group returned to the dining area and in an adjoining room where Wilfredo showed us how the final husk was removed and the beans were roasted over a wood fire in a clay pot. We took turns stirring the beans constantly for about 20 minutes. It’s a small operation where everything is done by hand. The final product is sold to tourists or to a cooperative. Wilfredo’s wife roasts about 10 kilograms or 30 batches of beans per day! 

Marc Roasting Coffee

Once the beans were roasted they were ground. The final step was to “brew” the coffee in a porcelain pot. Hot water was poured over the coffee and allowed to drip through a filter. Wilfredo said that this part of the process can not be rushed or the coffee will be ruined and all work previously done wasted. Sampling the coffee, it was very strong, more like espresso. Dinner was served after and the guys stayed up later to watch the end of the soccer game. Marc and I went to bed, drifting off to sleep as the guys cheered for Brazil or was it Argentina?

Wilfred Brewing Coffee

Today was the last day of our trek. When I went to breakfast, Juan, our chef, had prepared us a farewell cake! 

Juan with Farewell Cake

After breakfast, we said goodbye to Juan, David, and Hilario. I will miss their smiling faces and willingness to make us happy. Our now smaller group headed out and climbed up and up encountering many more trekkers as this part of the trail was on the popular Salkantay Trek. Following an ancient Inca trail to the top of the ridge, we had our first views of Machu Picchu from the back of the Inca citadel, a sight few visitors see. 

First Views of Machu Picchu

Just below was Llactapata, an Inca site that has only recently been excavated. An archeological study concluded that the location of Llaqtapata along the Inca trail suggested that it was an important rest stop and roadside shrine on the journey to Machu Picchu. It may have also served as a communication post as signals could have been sent to Machu Picchu via mirrors, smoke, flags, fires or blowing conch shells. 

Ruins at Llaqtapata

We then descended steeply into the Urubamba Valley all the way down to the river and the train station at Hidroeléctrica. A short ride to Aguas Calientes took longer because the train had to keep backing up to gain elevation. I was shocked! When we visited here 28 years ago, Aguas Calientes was just a train stop where the locals would sell produce or handicrafts to the few tourists who dared venture here. 1991 was the height of the Sendero Luminoso, a communist rebel group whose activity has declined in recent years. Now Aguas Calientes is a bustling tourist town with hotels, restaurants, fancy stores, bars, and coffee shops to cater to the thousands of tourists that visit Machu Picchu daily. I have to admit a hot shower and comfy bed felt good after 9 days on the trail.

Aguas Calientes

The festivities from Peru beating Chile in the semifinals of the Copa América soccer tournament lasted most of the night. The music, drum beating, fireworks and chanting finally ended at 4:40 am. When I looked out the window there was a long queue for the first bus to Machu Picchu. I hoped the line would diminish as the morning wore on. Around 9:30 we went to join the bus queue. It had not gotten any shorter if anything it had grown longer. 

Bus Queue for Machu Picchu

Finally, we made it to the front of the queue and boarded a bus. It was now 10:30. About 30 buses or so run continuously throughout the day each bringing 30 passengers to or from Machu Picchu. Until recently as many as 5000 people a day visited Machu Picchu during the high season but the number of visitors permitted on a daily basis has now been capped at 2,500. The bus climbed the steep switchbacks to the end of the road where a luxury lodge now exists. It was a bit chaotic exiting the bus but once through the gate, there was less congestion. Victor suggested we visit the Sun Gate first. It was a good move as few people make the 45-minute climb along the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate (Intipunku). 

At the Sun Gate

We didn’t visit the Sun Gate in 1991 so I was keen to make it this time. Two stone gates here correspond to the all-important winter and summer solstices; on those dates, the sun’s rays illuminate the gates like a laser. The view from the gate was stupendous! 

View of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate

We returned to where Victor was waiting for us and next visited the Inca Bridge, another place we missed on our 1991 visit. West of Machu Picchu, the Inca Bridge, built upon stacked stones and overlooking a sheer, 600m (nearly 2,000 ft.) drop was critical to the citadel’s defense. Logs were placed across a gap in the stone wall which could be pulled away if an enemy was approaching. Today, a gate prevents tourists from crossing the Inca Bridge and continuing on. 

Peggy near the Inca Bridge

We returned to the main site just below the Caretaker’s Hut to take more photos of Machu Picchu, this time with llamas in the foreground. 

Llama at Machu Picchu

By now the crowds had diminished and it was time to visit Machu Picchu itself. We entered the main gate and visited the Temple of the Sun (also called the Torreón). The rounded, tapering tower has extraordinary masonry with its large stones seamlessly fitting together. From the ledge above the temple, there is a window perfectly aligned for the June winter solstice when the sun’s rays come streaming through at dawn and illuminate the stone at the center of the temple. We were too late for the winter solstice but Marc spotted what he thought was a rabbit sitting in the window. It was actually a Mountain Viscacha! 

Mountain Viscacha at the Temple of the Sun

Continuing to the Sacred Plaza comprised of the Temple of the Three Windows, the Principal Temple and the House of the High Priest, we saw fountains still functioning, the quarry from which stone was taken to build the site and reflecting pools of water used for astronomical observations. We had been hesitant to return to Machu Picchu as it would be difficult to top our 1991 visit and were concerned that the high number of visitors would have damaged the site and diminish the experience. However, Machu Picchu is as spectacular as ever and is well-cared for.

Central Plaza at Machu Picchu

We left around 4:00 to catch a bus back down to Aguas Calientes and walked to a restaurant for an early dinner. It was a crazy scene with the train tracks running through the center of town! It’s the only way in or out.

A Train Running Through Aguas Calientes

After dinner, we went to the train station where our duffels were waiting. I slept off and on during the 2-hour train ride to Ollantaytambo. The train rocked to and fro in sections. Around 8:00 the train reached the end of the line and we had to carry our duffels to where a bus was parked. Another 2 hours on a mix of paved and gravel roads through small towns brought us to Cusco. We said our final goodbye to Victor and turned in around 11:00. It had been a long but very rewarding day, a fitting end to an amazing trek!

Our Trek 'Family'

A heartfelt thanks go to our wonderful guide Victor whose passion and knowledge of Peru he expertly shared with us each day. A big thank you to Juan our chef whose meals were not only delicious but beautifully presented. We were also very grateful to David and Hilario who helped Juan prepare and served our food and to our horsemen Froilan, Robert, and Flavio who transported our gear and helped to set up camp. Without their support, it would have not been possible to do this trek with its spectacular scenery, archeological treasures and village life!

We hope all is well with everyone.

Peggy and Marc

Our route map:

Trek to “The Cradle of Gold”

Greetings Everyone,

We’ve returned to Peru to trek to the Incan ruins of Choquequirao, often referred to as “The Cradle of Gold”. It had been 18 years since we last visited this fascinating country and we were drawn once again by its rich archeological treasures, vibrant culture and fascinating wildlife. Our journey began in the former Incan capital of Cusco which you can now reach via a direct flight from Bogota, Colombia. The city has grown tremendously since our last visit and was bustling with festivities surrounding Cusco Day. Plaza de Armas, the main square, was packed with people who had come to watch the parade of local dancers and musicians dressed in colorful costumes. We were able to watch the proceedings from a restaurant balcony high above the throng of onlookers.

Cusco Day Dancers

The next day we met the other members of our trekking group, Mark and Chris from Britain, Robin from Scotland and Victor our guide. On June 25th we drove westwards from Cusco for 6 hours to the start of our trek at Capuliyoc. From this vantage point, we could see the formidable Apurímac Canyon, one of the deepest in the world which we would have to cross to reach Choquequirao!

Apurímac Canyon

This feat would take us 2 days starting with a 3600-foot descent that afternoon to our first campsite at Chiquiska.

Descending into Apurímac Canyon  

The following morning we continued our descent of another 1800 feet passing tall San Pedro Cactus and Prickly Pear Cactus before reaching the Apurímac River.

Marc Approaching the Apurímac River

Fortunately, a new bridge had been built across the river to replace the one that had been swept away in 2011.

Bridge over the Apurímac River 

Here colorful Mitred Parakeets were feeding in the nearby trees, and Marc was able to get some photos.

Mitred Parakeet

Now we had to climb out of the canyon and up a mere 6000 feet to the campground below Choquequirao! Fortunately, the trail was graded for horses and we could ascend steadily up switchbacks to the tiny village of Marampata where we stopped for lunch at the home of a local farmer.

Lunch Stop at Marampata

We were entertained by the farmer's kittens, puppies, and chickens, all of whom wanted a taste of our meal.

Lunch!

After lunch, we continued toward the campground getting our first glimpses of Choquequirao and its impressive series of terraces along the way.

Choquequirao Terraces

By the time we arrived in camp, we were too tired to climb further to the ruins, so we rested up for a full day of exploration tomorrow. I was surprised at how many trekkers were camping here, including another group and many backpackers who unlike us, had to carry all their own gear. Most would return the way we had just come, but we would continue on along a 9-day route that would take us close to Machu Picchu.

Choquequirao Campground

Early the next morning, we headed out to visit Choquequirao and climbed modestly to the main gate, but it was locked. We paused for group photos then Robin and I went around the gate, but the others squeezed through. 

Let us in!

We entered an area of three large grassy terraces. Victor told us that camping used to be allowed here but backpackers would leave their trash, cut trees for campfires and remove rocks from the walls for fire rings. Fortunately, camping was banned in 2003 and the campground we were using was constructed nearby. Surprisingly, when we arrived at the central plaza, there were only a few other tourists considering the number staying at the campground. We decided to climb to the ceremonial platform to take pictures while the weather was clear and the lighting right. We scampered up and had a great view of the terraces we passed, the central plaza and the storehouses above. 

Choquequirao from the Ceremonial Platform

We returned to the main plaza where Victor gave us a history lesson. Choquequirao was built by the 11th Incan King, Pachacuti Inca Yupangui, in the latter years of the Incan empire from the 1490s to the 1520s. It was the last place of Incan resistance against the Spanish who never entered here but brought the mighty Incan Empire to an end in 1572. Choquequirao was rediscovered by Spanish explorer Juan Arias Díaz in 1710 and Hiram Bingham came in 1909, two years before he discovered Machu Picchu. At that time, the trail existed but Bingham and his mules had to cross the river by cable car. 

Following our lecture, we visited the structures in the main plaza. Choquequirao is 75% original construction with only 25% restored. The first site was the “water place.” Water was very important to the Incas and it had three uses: drinking, irrigation, and ceremony. Stone-lined channels carried ceremonial water to shrines and baths throughout the site. 

Water Channel

We then visited the “mummy house” where important people we entombed in the fetal position to be reborn. Nearby were the 2-story Inca palaces where the upper caste lived. 

Inca Palaces

Next, we explored the “llama terraces” that were 1000 feet below the central plaza, first climbing down to a terrace decorated with a serpentine motif made with white quartzite. This style of design is uniquely Chachapoyan, another Andean culture that was conquered by the Incan Empire and believed to be involved in the construction of Choquequirao. 

Chachapoyan Rock Art

We continued down to the “llama terraces” where 25 llama figures had been built with the same white quartzite into the terrace walls. Llamas were the Incas' most important domestic animal, providing food, clothing and acting as beasts of burden. They were also often sacrificed in large numbers to the gods. We hiked out to a viewpoint from which we could see the entire set of terraces and its impressive rock art.

"Llama Terraces"

Closeup of a Llama

We climbed back up to the main plaza and continued up to the storehouses, the highest point of the site with spectacular views of the surrounding area.

Spectacular Views from Upper Storehouse

We returned to the ceremonial platform from which we took a different trail down passing the “priests’ house” then down to Pikiwasi which means “flea house,” a collection of small houses and workshops.

Pikiwasi

The following morning we visited sector XI of Choquequirao an impressive site called Phaqchayuq ("the one with a waterfall") containing 80 terraces used for cultivation, which are the most extensive in the complex.

Choquequirao Waterfall Terraces

Victor explained that the terraces were not made by cutting into the mountainside but by building a retaining wall and filling in behind it as shown in this diagram.

Terrace Construction

The Incas used these terraces to form a stable place to grow crops such as potatoes, quinoa, and maize. The gardens were irrigated by aqueducts and canals, amazing feats of construction that still function today. Excavation of the site continues and is sure to unearth new archaeological surprises!

Excavation Still Underway

We left Choquequirao and climbed further still to Choquequirao Pass and had our last views of  “The Cradle of Gold.” After a few hours of walking, our group descended to another set of Incan ruins called Pincha Unuyoc and camped for the night.

Camp at Pincha Unuyoc

Pincha Unuyoc was built about the same time as Choquequirao and it is believed to be primarily an agricultural site. We camped on the terraces of this secluded spot taking in the views and feeling the spirit of the Incans who resided here centuries before us.

Reflection

The next morning we climbed 1900 feet down to the Rio Blanco and crossed on a rustic bridge. 

Crossing the Rio Blanco

We followed a rocky path along the bottom of the canyon and stopped for a break before starting up the 4000 feet of switchbacks to the tiny settlement of Maizal. There were many brightly colored butterflies along the way to distract us from the arduous climb. 

Colorful Butterfly

Across the valley, we could just make out the ruins at Pincha Unuyoc and the set of switchbacks we had taken down to the river.

View of Switchbacks from Maizal

We reached Maizal around noon, a big descent (1900 feet) followed by an even bigger ascent (4100 feet) in just 4.5 hours! We settled into our tent in the afternoon for some well-deserved downtime. That evening, Victor pointed out the “black llama,” a void in the Milky Way in the shape of a llama. The eyes of the “black llama” are the two brightest stars in the Southern Hemisphere, Alpha Centauri, and Beta Centauri. Marc was unable to get a photo but we did find an illustration on the internet. I couldn’t help but feel another spiritual connection to the Inca. 

Incan Constellations

We were now more than halfway through our trek. The high mountain passes were yet to come. Stay tuned to see how we fare as we continue our trek from Choquequirao to Machu Picchu.

We hope all is well back home.

Peggy and Marc

Our route map: