Great White Place

Greetings All,
We have finished the Mushara Elephant Expedition.  After two weeks at the waterhole Marc and I cataloged 53 bulls, 28 of them known visitors and 25 new individuals.  We also documented 6 breeding herds including several new herds to the area.  We put together a PowerPoint containing photos and identifying characteristics for each bull.

Marc Working on the PowerPoint

For example, Etosha has a big tear in his left ear and a heart shaped tail.

Etosha's ID Page

Jerry has extreme ear folding and sparse tail hair. 

Jerry's ID Page

By the end of two weeks we could refer to our PowerPoint and identify a bull that had previously visited the water hole.

The herds were much more difficult to document.  There are more individuals and when they're grouped together its difficult to single out individuals for identification.  There were however some very distinct individuals such as Wynonna and her calf Liza.  Wynonna has a "W"shaped cutout in her left ear and a missing left tusk. She is part of the Actors Herd.

Wynonna's ID page

Crumpled Ear is a member of the herd named after her.  She has a very obvious crumpled right ear which makes identifying her easy even at night when most of the herds visit the waterhole.

Crumpled Ear's ID Page

Marc compiled a video library of over 300 gigabytes of footage we took during our two week stay. Hopefully this will make it easier for Caitlin, the lead researcher, to find a particular event.

Marc videoing the Action at Mushara

After two weeks, we were not only getting to know the elephants, we were getting to know the lion pride that makes Mushara their home.  The dominant male who I called "Dark Mane", kept us awake many nights with his grunting roars while mating with one of the lionesses.

Keep Away from my Woman!

 The cubs would visit in the morning and "Bent Ear" would stare at me with an intensity beyond curiosity.

"Bent Ear"

On our last morning a very pregnant  "Bob Tail" paid us a visit.  With her missing tail she looks more like an overgrown bobcat than a lioness.

"Bob Tail" 

After the project, we spent 3 days exploring Etosha National Park on our own.  The park is dominated by the immense Etosha Pan visible from space!  In the language of the Ovambo tribe Etosha means "great white place".  This natural mineral pan was first formed over 100 million years ago. About 16,000 years ago, the Kunene River in Angola would have flowed all the way to Etosha, forming, a large and deep lake. But the river would later change its course due to tectonic plate movement and head for the Atlantic, causing the lake to slowly dry up and leaving the salt pan behind.

Peggy on the Pan

The first afternoon we visited one of the public waterholes.  To our surprise, a breeding herd of elephants came in.  We enjoyed watching them at close range.  As we were leaving another herd came down the road.  We backed up but could only go so far.  We watched with held breath as they drew closer and closer.  Marc didn't want to start the truck and startle them so we held our ground.  They passed within 20 feet of us!  My heart was beating wildly, that was close, a little too close.

Too Close for Comfort!

Our next herd encounter was the following day at a waterhole called Halali.  The waterhole is fenced and the viewing is from some rocks about 20 feet above the waterhole so we were completely safe.  It was fun watching the interactions and a young bull dust bathing or trying to.  He kept blowing the dust in his eyes instead of on his back.

Dust gets in your Eyes

Despite the drought, the animals appear to be doing well.  There is still ample food in the park and water is pumped to numerous waterholes.  How such massive creatures, elephants, rhino, eland and giraffe can sustain themselves on dried grass and leaves is beyond me. Some of our favorite photos from Etosha National Park follow.

A Large Eland Herd Drinks at Mushara 

 

"Blond Mane"

 

A Gang of Giraffe

 

Male Steenbok

 

Black Rhino

Spotted Hyena

We are now heading north to the Kunene River on the border with Angola.  We hope all is well back home.
Peggy and Marc.

Part of the Herd

Greetings All,
A few days ago we got to view an elephant herd from the bunker.  The bunker is a concrete structure built into the ground 20 meters away from the waterhole.  There is a slit in the front through which you can view and photograph animals that come to the waterhole.

Marc Photographing Elephants from the Bunker  

It's an amazing experience to watch an elephant herd approach from ground level.

Slit Ear's Herd Approaches

The herd that came in is known as Slit Ear's Herd, named after the matriarch that has a large slit in her left ear.  The herd is made up of around 24 individuals.  Herd composition is broken down by size and age.  There are 4 full grown females, aged somewhere between 15 and 45 years, five 3/4-sized individuals aged between 10 and 15 years, six 1/2-sized individuals between the age of 3 and 10 years, seven 1/4-sized individuals from 1 to 3 years old and 3 babies less than 1 year old in the herd.  They stopped at the trough to quench their thirst.

The Herd Drinks from the Trough

Elephants drink a lot of water, about 225 liters per day!  Then can suck up to 9 liters in their trucks at a time and squirt it into their mouths.  We aren't seeing the same herds at the waterhole everyday but they seem to show up every 2 to 3 days.  Once their thirst was quenched, they turned their attention to us.  One inquisitive member of the herd stuck his trunk down into the hatch of the bunker through which we entered.

Trunk in the bunker!

 

Another curious fellow peered at us through the hatch.

 

I See You!



We were quite safe in the bunker and could enjoy being part of the herd.  Slit Ear kept a watchful eye on us.

Slit Ear Keeps an Eye on Us

The youngsters approached the bunker trying to figure out who these strangers among the herd were.

Come out, Come out Whoever you Are!

A teeny baby just weeks old was tucked safely under mom's belly.

Elephant Calf

 

Typically a single calf is born every 4 years after a nearly 2 year gestation.  They are cared for by their mothers and other young females in the herd called allomothers.  Babies wean after 6 to 18 months but may nurse up to 6 years.

 

Slit Ear and her Calf 

Gazing into the eye of an elephant, you get a sense of how intelligent they are.  I wondered what she was thinking.  It's hard to believe that elephants are poached for their ivory.  When I think that this mother who so lovingly cares for her baby and is a member of a family can be killed just so someone can have a trinket made out of ivory, it's makes me angry.  When will human compassion and willingness to share this planet with other beings outweigh our greed and self importance?   

Eye of an Elephant

After about 45 minutes the herd disappeared back into the bush.  Two male Springbok were seriously sparring.  One was actually lifted off the ground by the other and landed on the ground with his leg caught in the victor's horns!

Springbok Males Sparring
 

It was time to return to camp before more elephants showed up at the waterhole.  We'll see what secrets the elephants will reveal in the days ahead.

We hope all is well back home.
Peggy and Marc

Life and Death at the Waterhole

Greetings All,
We are in Namibia's premier National Park, Etosha.  We are part of an elephant research team actually living at a waterhole.  We are assisting Caitlin O'Connell and Tim Rodwell in collecting data on the elephants that visit Mushara waterhole.  A camp complete with a 3-story tower had been set up.  That's our tent on the left of level 1 and home for the next two weeks. 

Marc Pointing to our Tent

One of our first duties was to take video and photographs of bull elephants visiting the waterhole. We have to record when a bull enters the clearing and from what direction.  The challenging part is to identify the bull from photos taken in previous years.  Thankfully, we had Caitlin to assist.  Elephants are identified by cuts, holes or slits in their ears, size of their tusks, hair on their tails, etc.

Mushara Bulls

Late one afternoon we were observing a large breeding herd of  cows, juveniles and calves.  Three young bulls came charging in from the west and scattered the herd.  In all the commotion, a young calf only weeks old got separated from her mother.  A young bull kicked her and she headed back toward the waterhole where only the older bulls remained.  She searched in vain among the giants but mom was nowhere in sight.  The bulls didn't quite know what to do.  We watched helplessly while imploring mom to return.

Baby and the Bulls

It seemed like an eternity but 45 minutes later mom, auntie and cousin came racing back into the clearing.

Help is on the Way

 

When they finally spotted her they rushed over and were reunited

Together at Last

We all breathed a sigh of relief including the old bulls or so it seemed as they sauntered off.  The calf started to nurse as if nothing happened.

What's all the Fuss About?

The next morning started off with a bang, Happy Fourth of July!   I peered out of our tent and a male lion and two lionesses were feeding on a freshly killed kudu not more than 200 meters away.  I dressed and went up above to watch what would happen next.  Another lioness with three cubs approached from the west and joined breakfast.  A large male with a dark mane came from the same direction and claimed the lions share of the kill.

Breakfast at Mushara

After their meal the lions lazed around with fat bellies while the cubs wrestled.

Cubs Playing

The only animal brave enough to approach the waterhole with the lions around was a lone black rhino.

Black Rhino

After the pride had demolished the carcass, they moved off and the opportunistic black-backed jackals moved in.

Jackals Moving In

In just three days we have already witnessed the life and death struggles that play out at the waterhole.  The abandoned elephant calf was reunited with mom and would live to see another day. The ambushed kudu died but would sustain the lion pride until their next kill.

Here are a few more photos of visitors to the waterhole.

Lioness

Oryx Sparring

 

 

Ostrich

We hope everyone had a Happy Fourth of July.  Stay tuned for more stories about living at a waterhole in the African bush.
Marc and Peggy

The Cubs First Run and Farewell to CCF

Greetings All,
Our month at CCF is nearly over.  We have had an amazing time and even more new experiences in our final week.  We got to watch the cubs, Rainbow and Aurora on their first "cheetah run".  They picked it up quickly and were racing around the field after the rag lure just like their adult counterparts.

Cubs First Run

This past week we were busy doing game counts.  We did an afternoon circuit count, a night count and the highlight, a 12-hour waterhole count.  That's right, we had to sit at a waterhole for 12 hours and count all the animals that came to drink.  We were set up in a brick hide with an open window slit in front through which we could watch and photograph animals.

Marc in the hide

View of Waterhole from the Hide

We started at 6:00 and it took about an hour for the animals to show up.  The first visitors were elands, the largest of Africa's antelope species and a steady stream of animals visited the waterhole throughout the day.

Eland

At one point there were nearly 30 zebra at the waterhole.  Not only did we have to count the number of animals, we had to determine how many males and how many females there were as well as indicate the number of adults vs. subadults vs. calves.

Zebra

During the few lulls in animal visitors we were able to enjoy the beautiful birds frequenting the waterhole.  Our favorites were violet-eared waxbills, black-faced waxbills and acacia pied barbet.

Black-faced Waxbill 

Violet-eared Waxbill

A curious slender mongoose came to visit no doubt attracted by our lunch.

Slender Mongoose

Before we knew it our 12 hours were up and it was time to return to CCF.

What's more fun than a wheelbarrow full of goats?  Why cleaning the goat pens of course.  They didn't make it easy jumping into the wheelbarrow and knocking over our rakes and shovels but you had to laugh at their inquisitive nature.

Peggy Cleaning the Kraal

Being a model farm, CCF raises goats and sheep and host workshops to teach local farmers better animal husbandry.  Along with the flocks are the livestock guarding dogs that we have continued to walk throughout our stay.  I'll miss our walks up Leopard Hill and along the Savannah Trail.

We got to watch the Ambassadors run one final time yesterday.  I continue to marvel at the cheetah, the fastest land animal.



Cheetah Run

We thank CCF for the privilege of spending a month with these amazing cats and the opportunity to learn more about them.

Cheetah Cub



I will miss their purrs, hisses, spits and chirps.  I hope they will win the race for survival and that humans can learn to coexist with these magnificent predators.  I can't imagine a world without cheetahs!

We hope all is well back home.
Marc and Peggy

Leopard Hill Dogs and Pangolin Power

Greetings All,
Another week has passed at CCF.  We had a new task assigned to us: walk the Anatolian shepherd dogs guarding the goats in the corral.  This enabled us to explore the farm and get some much needed exercise.  The dogs felt the same way.  A new game emerged - what dogs could make it to the top of Leopard Hill?  Although not very high, maybe a 200 foot climb, most of the dogs had never been to the top.  The first to make it was Hediye.  We shared a great view of the CCF farm.

Peggy and Hediye on the way down from Leopard Hill

The next day we took Kiri and Firat to the top.  There were some that didn't think Firat would make it but not to be out done by Kiri, he was the third dog to become a Leopard Hill Dog!  Kiri was happy to escape her brood of 11 puppies for awhile.  They loved sniffing  the white pole on top!

Marc with Kiri and Firat on Leopard Hill

The following morning, Spots made his bid.  Along with Hediye (already a Leopard Hill Dog), Spots joined the esteemed ranks of a Leopard Hill Dog.  The last two dogs to be inaugurated were Cheetah and Spikey.  Cheetah was particularly proud as he was recovering from a tick-born disease.

Peggy with Cheetah and Spikey on Leopard Hill

In addition to guarding livestock, some dogs at CCF are trained to detect cheetah scat.  We helped Steph one morning in continuing her training of Tiger, a springer spaniel from Australia.  We hid a few pieces of cheetah scat, then Steph gave Tiger the "find it!" command.  Using his acute sense of smell Tiger found the scat in no time and would sit next to it waiting for Steph's approval.  He was rewarded with play toys.

Tiger, the Scat Detection Dog

I'm sure most of you are wondering "why on earth would you want to find cheetah poo?"  There are a few reasons.  First, the scat is analyzed to determine what the cheetah has been eating.  This data is useful to show farmers that cheetah prefer wild prey over livestock.  Secondly, DNA can now be extracted from scat and individual cheetahs identified.  This is helpful in determining how many and which cheetahs are in an area.

The last couple of days we've been helping Ryan feed 35 of CCF's 50 cheetahs.  This involved taking a 45-minute drive to Bellebeno Farm to feed the less habituated cheetahs.  Along the way there is always the chance to see other animals such as these graceful Kudu at Eric se Pos waterhole.

Greater Kudu

Warthog families would frequently trot across the road with tails held high as "follow me" signs.

Warthogs

We also encountered Oryx, Giraffe, Steenbok and this handsome Black-backed jackal.

Black-backed Jackal

One of the cheetahs at Bellebeno is Athena.  Ryan told us her fascinating story.  She was brought to CCF last November along with 3 other female cheetahs after being trapped by a farmer.  One of her paws was in bad shape and a toe had to be amputated.  After lots of TLC by CCF vets and staff she recovered and was released on Bellebeno.  Unfortunately she did not stay on CCF land and ended up on a neighboring farm where she started killing livestock.  She was trapped and returned to CCF where it was determined that her teeth had gone bad (probably why she resorted to killing livestock) and that she was pregnant!  She gave birth to one or two cubs at Bellebeno.  Unfortunately they did not survive.  A wild male cheetah broke into her pen and may have killed her cubs.  She may be pregnant again.  Athena is a stunning cat and we hope she can be returned to the wild one day where she and her cubs can roam free.

Athena

Last night we visited The Big Field to watch the sun set and a nearly full moon rise over the Waterberg Plateau.

Moon Rise over the Waterberg Plateau

An unexpected surprise waited for us.  Bruce and Laurie had found a pangolin!   In all our 17 trips to Africa we have never seen a pangolin.  It was the one African mammal that I had most wanted to see. We raced off to Laurie and Bruce's location and there he was, a beautiful Ground Pangolin (Smutsia temminckii) also known as Temminck's Pangolin trying to hide under a bush.

Ground Pangolin

He (not really sure of the gender) resembled an over grown tailed-artichoke with a wee head and beady eyes.  What a prehistoric looking creature and an incredibly lucky sighting!  I was overcome with emotion.  What a privilege to see an amazing animal in such a beautiful location!

Ground Pangolin

Here are a few more of our favorite photos:

Rainbow and Aurora Grooming

Eland Bull



Cheetah Run

We'll see what surprises CCF has in store for us during our final week.
We hope all is well back home.
Peggy and Marc


Postscript: We learned from CCF that Spots passed away on September 30, 2018 at the age of 10. You can read more about Spots at:

Goodbye to Spots