Great White Place

Greetings All,
We have finished the Mushara Elephant Expedition.  After two weeks at the waterhole Marc and I cataloged 53 bulls, 28 of them known visitors and 25 new individuals.  We also documented 6 breeding herds including several new herds to the area.  We put together a PowerPoint containing photos and identifying characteristics for each bull.

Marc Working on the PowerPoint

For example, Etosha has a big tear in his left ear and a heart shaped tail.

Etosha's ID Page

Jerry has extreme ear folding and sparse tail hair. 

Jerry's ID Page

By the end of two weeks we could refer to our PowerPoint and identify a bull that had previously visited the water hole.

The herds were much more difficult to document.  There are more individuals and when they're grouped together its difficult to single out individuals for identification.  There were however some very distinct individuals such as Wynonna and her calf Liza.  Wynonna has a "W"shaped cutout in her left ear and a missing left tusk. She is part of the Actors Herd.

Wynonna's ID page

Crumpled Ear is a member of the herd named after her.  She has a very obvious crumpled right ear which makes identifying her easy even at night when most of the herds visit the waterhole.

Crumpled Ear's ID Page

Marc compiled a video library of over 300 gigabytes of footage we took during our two week stay. Hopefully this will make it easier for Caitlin, the lead researcher, to find a particular event.

Marc videoing the Action at Mushara

After two weeks, we were not only getting to know the elephants, we were getting to know the lion pride that makes Mushara their home.  The dominant male who I called "Dark Mane", kept us awake many nights with his grunting roars while mating with one of the lionesses.

Keep Away from my Woman!

 The cubs would visit in the morning and "Bent Ear" would stare at me with an intensity beyond curiosity.

"Bent Ear"

On our last morning a very pregnant  "Bob Tail" paid us a visit.  With her missing tail she looks more like an overgrown bobcat than a lioness.

"Bob Tail" 

After the project, we spent 3 days exploring Etosha National Park on our own.  The park is dominated by the immense Etosha Pan visible from space!  In the language of the Ovambo tribe Etosha means "great white place".  This natural mineral pan was first formed over 100 million years ago. About 16,000 years ago, the Kunene River in Angola would have flowed all the way to Etosha, forming, a large and deep lake. But the river would later change its course due to tectonic plate movement and head for the Atlantic, causing the lake to slowly dry up and leaving the salt pan behind.

Peggy on the Pan

The first afternoon we visited one of the public waterholes.  To our surprise, a breeding herd of elephants came in.  We enjoyed watching them at close range.  As we were leaving another herd came down the road.  We backed up but could only go so far.  We watched with held breath as they drew closer and closer.  Marc didn't want to start the truck and startle them so we held our ground.  They passed within 20 feet of us!  My heart was beating wildly, that was close, a little too close.

Too Close for Comfort!

Our next herd encounter was the following day at a waterhole called Halali.  The waterhole is fenced and the viewing is from some rocks about 20 feet above the waterhole so we were completely safe.  It was fun watching the interactions and a young bull dust bathing or trying to.  He kept blowing the dust in his eyes instead of on his back.

Dust gets in your Eyes

Despite the drought, the animals appear to be doing well.  There is still ample food in the park and water is pumped to numerous waterholes.  How such massive creatures, elephants, rhino, eland and giraffe can sustain themselves on dried grass and leaves is beyond me. Some of our favorite photos from Etosha National Park follow.

A Large Eland Herd Drinks at Mushara 

 

"Blond Mane"

 

A Gang of Giraffe

 

Male Steenbok

 

Black Rhino

Spotted Hyena

We are now heading north to the Kunene River on the border with Angola.  We hope all is well back home.
Peggy and Marc.

Life and Death at the Waterhole

Greetings All,
We are in Namibia's premier National Park, Etosha.  We are part of an elephant research team actually living at a waterhole.  We are assisting Caitlin O'Connell and Tim Rodwell in collecting data on the elephants that visit Mushara waterhole.  A camp complete with a 3-story tower had been set up.  That's our tent on the left of level 1 and home for the next two weeks. 

Marc Pointing to our Tent

One of our first duties was to take video and photographs of bull elephants visiting the waterhole. We have to record when a bull enters the clearing and from what direction.  The challenging part is to identify the bull from photos taken in previous years.  Thankfully, we had Caitlin to assist.  Elephants are identified by cuts, holes or slits in their ears, size of their tusks, hair on their tails, etc.

Mushara Bulls

Late one afternoon we were observing a large breeding herd of  cows, juveniles and calves.  Three young bulls came charging in from the west and scattered the herd.  In all the commotion, a young calf only weeks old got separated from her mother.  A young bull kicked her and she headed back toward the waterhole where only the older bulls remained.  She searched in vain among the giants but mom was nowhere in sight.  The bulls didn't quite know what to do.  We watched helplessly while imploring mom to return.

Baby and the Bulls

It seemed like an eternity but 45 minutes later mom, auntie and cousin came racing back into the clearing.

Help is on the Way

 

When they finally spotted her they rushed over and were reunited

Together at Last

We all breathed a sigh of relief including the old bulls or so it seemed as they sauntered off.  The calf started to nurse as if nothing happened.

What's all the Fuss About?

The next morning started off with a bang, Happy Fourth of July!   I peered out of our tent and a male lion and two lionesses were feeding on a freshly killed kudu not more than 200 meters away.  I dressed and went up above to watch what would happen next.  Another lioness with three cubs approached from the west and joined breakfast.  A large male with a dark mane came from the same direction and claimed the lions share of the kill.

Breakfast at Mushara

After their meal the lions lazed around with fat bellies while the cubs wrestled.

Cubs Playing

The only animal brave enough to approach the waterhole with the lions around was a lone black rhino.

Black Rhino

After the pride had demolished the carcass, they moved off and the opportunistic black-backed jackals moved in.

Jackals Moving In

In just three days we have already witnessed the life and death struggles that play out at the waterhole.  The abandoned elephant calf was reunited with mom and would live to see another day. The ambushed kudu died but would sustain the lion pride until their next kill.

Here are a few more photos of visitors to the waterhole.

Lioness

Oryx Sparring

 

 

Ostrich

We hope everyone had a Happy Fourth of July.  Stay tuned for more stories about living at a waterhole in the African bush.
Marc and Peggy

May 22, 2012: Lunch with Elephants, Love in the Bush & Hyena Hijinks

Hi All,
As promised here are some more tails and tales from Kruger National Park. On Friday we stopped off at a hide for lunch. A hide is an enclosed, usually raised platform overlooking a waterhole where you can safely sit and watch animals and birds. On the way to the hide we had to sneak past some elephants that were crossing the road. Turns out they were on their way to the waterhole for a drink. There was this little guy that ended up in the waterhole trunk first (photo 1).

He panicked when he couldn't climb out a let out a trumpet which agitated the rest of the herd. Fortunately, Mom was there to lend a helping truck and pushed the little guy to safety (photo 2).

That night we stayed at a camp called Shingwedzi. We decided to go on a night drive and heard lions roaring as we were getting ready to leave. I was hoping to run into them but, we were disappointed. As it turns out we decided to spend a 5th night in the Park which meant we had to pass by Shingwedzi Camp again on Sunday morning. As we approached there was a male and female lion on the road! They headed off into the grass to mate (photo 3 edited version). We were very lucky to have gotten a second change to see them.

We did go on another night drive from another camp called Punda Maria. We had better luck on this one. We ran into a female leopard and her two cubs! Marc managed to get a photo as she crossed the road (photo 4).

On our last game drive in Kruger we came across a Hyena den. There were 3 older pups and 1 young pup most likely from another litter playing around with each other. As we drove up they turned their attention to us. They circled the car and one put his front legs on the bumper and peered over the hood. Another inquisitive guy approached my open window and I thought he was going to jump in. When I went to close the window the car motor was off and these were power windows. A second vehicle pulled up and the hyena pups went off to check it out (photo 5).

One cheeky fellow ended up pulling a cap off from the back of the vehicle (photo 6).

I heard the driver exclaim "why you little b______d!" I could have watched them all morning but we had a long drive back to Pretoria. After spending the night with a friend, we are back in Joburg. Tomorrow we head to Mozambique for 4 nights. It's hard to believe our trip is nearing the end.

We hope all is well back home.
Peggy and Marc