Yaks Gone AWOL

Greetings All,
Yippee!!!  We woke to clearing skies and would be leaving Laya today!  Another trekking group had left Laya the day before and we hoped they would break trail over the next pass.

Laya Under Clear Skies

As we were heading out, two schoolgirls with the traditional conical bamboo hats that Laya is known for agreed to let us take their photo.



School Girls in Laya

 

As a result of the storm, Trek Groups piled up in Laya.  We were now on the same schedule as a group from France.  Some of our staff raced ahead to secure the trekkers' hut at Rodophu before the French arrived.  The hut was smoke filled so, we were happy to camp outside.  We did use one of the less smoky rooms in the hut to eat our meals.  A woman from Laya peered in through one of the windows offering to sell me a conical bamboo hat.  Of course I couldn't resist.

 

Laya Woman at Rodophu

 

Thanks to the group that was a day ahead of us, the snow that had fallen on our 5th pass, the Tsome La, had been well packed.

 

Us on the Tsome La, I'm wearing my new hat 


I'm amazed at how agile our pack ponies and mules are!  They are able to carry heavy loads over steep, slippery and rocky terrain wearing metal horseshoes!

Pack Ponies Crossing the Tsome La 

Descending from the pass we stopped at a flattish but snowy spot for lunch.  The sun poked through the clouds warming us.

Lunch below the Tsome La 

Yes, we were very pampered on this trek!  Our camp staff set up a table and chairs and served us a hot meal at every lunch.

 

We spent a cold night at our highest camp yet around 16,000 feet in preparation for crossing the Karakachu La at nearly 17,000 feet.  There were still lots of clouds around so the view was somewhat obscured.

 

Crossing our 6th pass, the Karakchu La 

 

It was a long knee-crunching descent to the Tarina Valley far below.  At least the spectacular views of turquoise lakes at the head of the valley distracted me from my aching knees.  

 

Lakes at the head of the Tarina Valley

 

We arrived at camp around 5:00, 9 and a quarter hours after we had set off in the morning.  Our pack ponies had arrived but where were the yaks?  We were now using around 13 yaks to carry loads over the high mountain passes.  Fortunately, the ponies carried all our stuff but the yaks had all the staff's gear.  It would be a cold night for them.  We offered some of our equipment but they would make do sleeping in the mess tent with pony blankets.

 

We turned in around 8:45 and still no yaks. 

  

We hope all is well back home.

Peggy and Marc

Hunkering Down in Laya

After leaving Jangothang the weather remained clear and we had spectacular mountain views from the summit of our first pass, the Nyele La at 15,900 feet.

Us on the Nyele La, our first Pass Crossing

Jitchu Drake is on the left and Tserim Gang is on the right.  As we descended from the pass we could see Lingshi Dzong perched strategically on a hill above.

Lingshi Dzong

Built in the 16th century by Zhabdrung, the lama responsible for unifying Bhutan, the Dzong is now falling to ruins after being damaged by the September 18 earthquake last year.  All monks living there had to move.

We dropped back down into rhododendron forest and camped next to the Lingshi Chu (River).  The following morning we climbed up to inspect the crumbling Lingshi Dzong then back down to the village of Lingshi.  As we approached we could see that an archery match was underway.  Men from the village of Lingshi were taking on rivals from the neighboring village of Gang Yul.  The Bhutanese take archery very seriously.  The match will go on all day with lots of singing and dancing when an archer hits the target and lots of beer drinking to improve aim.  New fangled bows from the US are now in vogue.

Archer in Lingshi

 

We descended to the tiny village of Gang Yul situated beneath enormous limestone cliffs and dwarfed by the massive east face of Tserium Gang.

Gang Sul at the base of Tserim Gang

The village was mostly deserted as most of the inhabitants were in Lingshi at the archery match.  A lone old woman spun her prayer wheel in quiet reflection.

Old Woman Spinning Prayer Wheel

We ended the day camping at the village of Chebisa in a yak pasture with lots of barking dogs at night.

Our Camp at Chebisa

 

Three more pass crossings brought us to Laya, the largest village on the trek.  As we entered the village, it started to rain.

Entering Laya

It was at this point we found out that a super cyclone from the Bay of Bengal was bearing down on India.  A massive wall of moisture was heading north into Nepal and Bhutan.  The rain continued throughout the night and through the next day.  Fortunately, the following day was a rest day and we could wait out the storm.  The rain did not stop and the next morning it had changed to snow! 

Snowy Camp at Laya

Our staff tried to cheer us up by building a beer-drinking snowman, very appropriate for the aptly named Snowman Trek.

Snowman in Laya

 

The decision was made to spend another day in Laya to see if the storm would abate.  At this point our trek was in serious jeopardy.  We may be forced to retreat to the road head at Gasa and miss going to Lunana all together.  My spirits sank and I prepared myself for the inevitable.  How could we proceed?  Even if the storm blew over surely it would leave lots of snow on the high passes. Could we or more importantly our pack animals make it over the snow clogged passes?  Only time would tell.

We hope all is well back home.

Peggy and Marc